The Best Flour To Choose For Irish Soda Bread (And Why)

A warming waft of freshly baked soda bread mingles with the comforting scent of a crackling peat fire. Just picturing that traditional scene is enough to transport the entire diaspora back to Ireland's shores. Yet the secret to the perfect Irish soda bread is slightly more scientific than these cozy memories suggest. In fact, a simple choice of flour can make or break the dish. Tasting Table spoke with Nanor Harboyan, executive chef at Helms Bakery in LA, to find the magic ingredient and why it matters. "A soft winter wheat is best for Irish soda bread, which traditionally uses 'Irish wholemeal' flour," Harboyan reveals.

Irish wholemeal flour imparts a more rustic effect and extra nutrients like fiber. It contains all of the wheat berry (including the endosperm, bran, and germ), adding textural and flavorsome oomph to the loaf. Winter wheat, quite literally grown off-season, also has lower protein levels, creating a cakier effect. Nailing that density is vital for recreating authentic Irish soda bread. 

Unfortunately, we do have to acknowledge a slight spanner in the works. It's good to learn what Irish wholemeal flour is and how it is best used for baking, but the product is notoriously difficult to get your hands on outside of Ireland. Stay open-minded and creative with replacements. "Sonora Flour is an ideal substitute for Irish wholemeal, as it has a beautiful nutty flavor and higher protein content to produce a delightfully chewy loaf," Harboyan suggests.

You've chosen the best possible ingredient, but how you use your Irish wholemeal flour is just as important. The question is simple: To sift or not to sift? Seasoned bakers know to rely on a quick sift when the goal is light-textured bread. However, it's often unnecessary for heartier baked goods like soda bread. "Sifting is not ideal for this bread, the flour contains parts of the entire wheat grain including the bran and endosperm, which we want to keep evenly distributed throughout the flour," Harboyan advises. Instead, mix the dry ingredients together straight off the bat, rubbing in the butter before adding buttermilk to transform it into dough. As its name suggests, the bread utilizes baking soda, not yeast, as a leavening agent, so there's no need to wait for rising.

Ready to put your non-sifted flour to good use? Irish soda bread is key to the perfect St. Patrick's Day sandwich, according to Jeff Mauro. It's not just a once-a-year dish though. Incorporate the staple snack into a simple yet wholesome breakfast (a slathering of butter is the key to serving Irish soda bread). Alternatively, serve it alongside lunches and dinners; soda bread goes beautifully with beef stew or leek and potato soup.